Getting the pH right before you close a 10,000-gallon gunite pool is one of the most important steps you can take to protect the plaster through winter. This post gives you exact muriatic acid doses by starting pH, explains why gunite demands tighter tolerances than other pool surfaces, and walks through the full closing-day process.
Indoor pools skip the sun, but that changes your trichlor shock math in ways most owners don't expect. CYA accumulates faster with no UV burn-off, and your target dose shifts accordingly. This post walks through the exact numbers for a 10,000-gallon indoor pool.
Closing your pool with CYA above 80 ppm is a problem you can actually fix without draining the whole thing. A calculated partial drain-and-refill is the most reliable method, and the math is simpler than you think. This guide walks through exactly how to do it, what to expect, and when other approaches fall short.
Fiberglass pools need careful pH control because the gel coat etches below 7.2. This guide gives you exact muriatic acid doses for a 20,000-gallon fiberglass pool, explains why pre-dilution matters, and walks you through a safe application process that protects your surface.
When your CYA is already at 70 ppm, using trichlor shock can push stabilizer into a range where chlorine barely works. This post walks through the exact dose for a 15,000-gallon above-ground pool, why CYA level changes the math, and what product to reach for instead.
Heavy rain dilutes chlorine, drops pH, and dumps contaminants into your saltwater pool all at once. A 10,000-gallon saltwater pool typically needs 1 pound of cal-hypo shock after heavy rain, but the real dose depends on your starting chlorine level and how much rain fell. This post walks through the math, the right shock type, and the steps to do it correctly.
Low calcium hardness in a vinyl liner pool can wrinkle the liner and corrode metal fittings, but adding calcium chloride the wrong way turns the water milky white. This guide walks through the right dose, the right method, and how to raise hardness gradually without clouding the water.
Winterizing an inground pool with a heater still plumbed in requires a few extra steps beyond standard closing. You need to drain the heater body, purge the heat exchanger ports, and protect any bypass lines from freezing. This guide walks through each step with specific guidance on what to drain, how to blow out the lines, and when antifreeze is your backup plan.
Running a cover pump on an above-ground pool the wrong way can bow the walls inward or shift the liner - sometimes permanently. This guide explains exactly how to drain standing water from your winter cover safely, including pump placement, flow rate limits, and the one timing mistake that causes most wall damage.
Winterizing a saltwater pool with a variable-speed pump is a bit different from a standard chlorine pool closing. The salt cell needs to come out, the pump has its own shutdown sequence, and the chemistry targets are slightly different. This guide walks through every step in order so nothing gets missed.
